Tag: spotlight

Night Drives: What to Expect

Posted on by James

A lot goes on after dark.

But sometimes there’s nothing.

The reality of a night drive is that there are so many variables that go into one, it’s almost impossible to prepare guests for what they will be like or what they will probably see. It’s dependant on area, length of drive, type of spotlight, whether it’s a national park or private reserve, the season, the phase of the moon, etc, etc….

Night drives can be epic. And sometimes they’re not.

Ask the right questions of your guide beforehand so your expectations can be managed, but here are a few things to remember:

Night Drives are about the search

Just being out after dark in the African wilderness is a treat. The Milky Way above you (dependent on cloud cover) and the calls of the nightbirds and crickets mean you’re already enjoying a special experience. If you encounter something, so much the better, but it’s a bonus, not something you should necessarily expect.
Some areas tend to be more productive than others in the matter of small creatures, so make sure you are well informed before setting out.

It’s often better to start with an animal

Just driving round hoping to bump into something can be unproductive.
Your field of view is dramatically reduced from the daytime when you have 360 degrees of lighting, to the night when you have the headlights of the vehicle and the spotlight. Granted, these do provide some advantages like enabling you to spot the eye-shine of some nocturnal creatures, but you certainly can’t see as much, and may drive round for a couple of hours and encounter nothing.
In Private reserves where off-roading is allowed, it’s often better to sit with a leopard or lion as darkness begins to settle, and as they get moving into the night, you follow and see what they get up to.
The phrase “A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush” probably wasn’t coined on safari, but it was never more appropriate…

Photography is going to be tricky

On a night drive, it’s usually better to put the camera away.
Unless you have really great gear and know exactly how to adjust your settings to adjust for very low light and the likely single beam of the spotlight, chances are you will be hacking around with your camera, getting frustrated while you try to work out why the shutter speed is so low and you’re getting such blurry images.
Far better to put the camera down and just enjoy…

There may be bugs in summer

The rainy season and its warmth and moisture can create conditions in which an insect or two might come buzzing along. Termites fly our of their mounds to start new colonies and dung beetles fly by on their merry way, navigating by the stars. You might get a bump or even a winged termite down the shirt. Nothing will happen, trust us! A small fright, maybe, but that’s the extent of it. Go out there knowing that there might be a close encounter of the tiny, winged, six-legged variety, and you’ll be fine.

Night drives are a wonderful extension of your safari experience. But just like in the daytime version, there are many things outside of the guide’s control, so go out there with a sense of adventure, a sense of humour, and the simple excitement of what you might encounter, and we guarantee you’ll get the most out of the experience…

Low Light Photography

Posted on by James

This is probably one of the trickiest areas of wildlife photography to get right.
Photography is all about light, and the less there is, the harder it is to take a sharp photograph. After sunset or before sunrise, cloudy days, or even shooting with a spotlight; all present their challenges, some of which can be overcome and others not so much. But with a couple of trips and tricks, you should be able to get some very memorable photos even when conditions are poor.

1. Know Your Equipment

A good workman never blames his tools, so they say, but the simple reality here is that some camera equipment is significantly better than others. Certain lenses let in more light, some bodies can cope with almost complete darkness, and having this more advanced (but unfortunately more expensive) equipment will go a long way towards getting better photos when the light is poor.
The two things to look for are lens that has a wide aperture (f2.8 or below) and a camera body with high ISO capability (ISO is a measure of the camera’s sensitivity to light). If you have those two you can probably keep snapping away for awhile when the sun has gone down.

If on the other hand you don’t have the advanced gear that the serious amateurs or professional photographers will make use of, it is important to recognise when you are barking up the wrong tree. You will probably hear a very slow shutter speed coming into play (your ranger will identify it for you), resulting in blurry photos.

Simply put your camera down, forget about taking photos, and enjoy watching whatever’s in front of you.

2. Try Something Different

Low light can be an excellent time to experiment.
If a leopard isn’t bathed in golden light but is instead moving slowly along  on a cold grey morning, it’s time to think outside the box.
Your camera will detect that there isn’t enough light around and use a slow shutter speed to compensate, but you can use this to your advantage.

By panning along with your subject, be it elephant, lion or leopard, and using a slow shutter speed, the background should blur out a bit whilst the animal (hopefully) stays sharp. This panning effect implies motion, and is a very effective way of conveying story, which is ultimately what wildlife photography is all about.

Understand Metering and Exposure

You are smarter than your camera. At least hopefully. Whilst you can clearly see that the world in front of you is veiled in darkness and the leopard illuminated in the spotlight is the only thing to concentrate on, and clearly the subject of your desired photo, your camera doesn’t know better. It will just see the darkness and try to compensate for it. It will open the shutter for longer to let more light in, thus massively overexposing the leopard and probably blurring it as well.

In a case like this, you need to tell the camera to keep things dark. You do this by adjusting the exposure. Have a read of a previous post of ours here to understand the concept a bit better.

Knowing how your camera reacts to different levels of light is crucial. The more advanced your photography becomes, the more control you will likely take away from it and put into your own hands (ie. you will be deciding all the settings for yourself).

 

Know What Your Subject Is

Is it the scene or is it the animal?

Do you want to accentuate the clouds or do you want detail in the wildlife?

A lot of the time in wildlife photography, you have to compromise. Make sacrifices. It’s like a relationship. Know what you have to give up on one side to gain something on the other.
Take a look at the photograph below, of wildebeest in the Maasai Mara.
Had the shot been exposed for the wildebeest, the dramatic colours in the evening sky would have been lost (the shutter would have necessarily been slower). Instead, the sky’s colours were prioritised and the wildebeest and lone tree were left as mere silhouettes. Which in turn tells its own story.
It would be very difficult (without the use of a flash or spotlight) to capture detail in both the sky and the wildebeest.

Ultimately, understanding exactly what shot you’re after, what settings you need to capture it, and what the limits of your equipment actually are, all combine to define how you can photograph in low light. But it’s certainly not a case of putting your camera away when the light fades.
Quite the contrary.

Feel free to drop any questions down below about all things wildlife photography related.