Most people who go on safari in Kenya go to the Mara. And the Mara deserves its reputation — the migration, the lions, the sheer volume of wildlife on those open plains. But there’s a version of Kenya that sits north of all that, quieter and considerably less visited, where the landscape shifts into something altogether different. Rocky outcrops, granite kopjes, dry sweeping valleys, and a conservancy so large that 44,000 acres of it belongs entirely to Suyian. &Beyond opened their lodge here in mid-2025, and it’s already one of the more interesting things to happen to Kenyan safari in recent memory.
The lodge itself is striking. Low-slung domed structures tucked into the escarpment, their rounded forms and planted roofs drawn directly from the surrounding granite. Fourteen suites, each with a plunge pool, outdoor shower, and fireplace — useful at this altitude, where the evenings cool faster than guests expect. The interiors carry a philosophy &Beyond calls Afro Wabi-Sabi: natural materials, mottled textures, subtle references to the semi-nomadic Samburu culture that has shaped this landscape for generations. Someone has thought carefully about every surface, and it shows.
The wildlife at Suyian is not the Mara. There are no wildebeest thundering past in their hundreds of thousands, and anyone arriving with a Big Five checklist and a tight schedule will need to recalibrate. What Suyian offers instead is rarer and, for the right traveller, considerably more compelling. Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, gerenuk, African wild dog, and the animal that has become something of a symbol for the conservancy — the melanistic leopard. Black leopards are among the most elusive cats on the continent. The neighbouring conservancy is famous for one named Giza. Suyian has its own. The odds of seeing one are never guaranteed, but the fact that they’re here at all says something important about the quality of the wilderness.
The activities lean into what makes Laikipia genuinely different. Camelback safaris trace routes across the conservancy that have been walked by Samburu herders for centuries. Horse riding is available for those who prefer their wildlife encounters at a slower, quieter pace — animals tend to behave differently around horses than vehicles, and the sightings reflect that. Walking safaris, night drives, visits to the working ranch that still runs alongside the conservation operation — Suyian is a working landscape, not a sealed-off reserve, and that gives it a layered, lived-in quality that is increasingly rare.
Suyian is a young property. It opened less than a year ago, but the architecture and food have drawn consistent praise. The wildlife, by its own nature, is unpredictable. This is a lodge for people who understand that the best safari experiences are not always the ones with the most animals — sometimes they’re the ones that take you somewhere genuinely new.
Laikipia has been on the radar of serious safari travellers for years. Suyian has given it a front door worthy of what lies behind it.
