Tag: Africa

The Dog Ate My Homework (African Version)

Posted on by James

One of our regular contributors, James Tyrrell, spent over a decade living and working at Londolozi Game Reserve. Although he now runs his media operations out of Cape Town, he shared this piece that he wrote when he used to fall asleep to the sound of hyenas and lions calling in the distance…

It’s human nature to become jaded.
The situation in which you’re living, whatever it is, whilst not necessarily becoming completely stale, will inevitably lose a bit of its gloss over time. This simply can’t be helped.

The 100th leopard hoist you see as a guide (that’s pretty excessive; not many hit that number!) won’t be quite as exciting as the first. The 15th pair of running shoes – to use a non-bush example – you buy as a trail-running fanatic will have the emphasis more on function and necessity instead of the thrill of the purchase and the opening of the box when it was your first pair.

The dopamine response we get from these situations loses its strength with repetition of the same stimulus, so that stimulus needs to be strengthened or changed for you to keep getting that same thrill.

Inevitably, as things lose a bit of their edge as you get used to them, comes the nit-picking, the pointing out of how things could be better.
As photographers we know this well: “There’s a branch in front of the leopard’s eye”, or “These lions aren’t doing much”, are things we’ve probably all said at one time or another. Yet by simply taking a step back and contextualising what those complaints are exactly, and the position we need to be in in order to make them, we come to realise just how special it is to actually have the “problems” that we think we do.

The title of this post comes from the fact that I had my favourite pair of bush shoes eaten by hyenas a few nights ago. Totally my fault, as I left them on my porch to dry after wading into the Sand River (no I wasn’t stuck!), and later that evening one of the local clan clearly took a liking to them and whisked them off into the darkness. I still haven’t even found a scrap left over.

Hyenas: a curse or a blessing? I vote for the latter, but I’m sure the local leopard population would disagree, given how many kills of theirs get stolen by the marauding scavengers.

Needless to say I cursed the culprit in the morning when I made the discovery of the missing shoes, saving some reprimands for my own stupidity at the same time, especially because these certainly aren’t the only shoes of mine that have disappeared along the same route. For the rest of the day I vented my anger at the general hyena population to anyone who’d listen.

Then I forced myself to pause and reflect, and ended up giving myself a stern talking to about just how fortunate I am to be in the position of having my shoes stolen by hyenas in the first place. Or my food being grabbed off my plate by one of the resident monkey troops. Or any of the myriad “problems” that come with bush living.

The pair of Lesser-Striped Swallows that nest in the eaves of my porch every year leave quite a mess from the materials they use to rebuild their seasonal home, but what a thrill it is to be able to look out the window and see the industrious parents daubing mud during the construction and then bringing in feathers to line the inside. And if I’m very lucky, I get to see their chicks take their first flights. Who cares about a little bit of mud spatter and some bird droppings on the balcony when that’s the only trade-off for being able to watch something so special play out over the course of a month or two?
They should actually be arriving any day now to start this year’s breeding attempt, and I look out my window daily, eagerly anticipating the sudden flutter of wings that announces that one of them has come in for a landing.

I wrote a post once about the gratitude we need to feel when we miss shots in wildlife photography, as the fact that we’re out there pursuing our passion should be the base reward, and nailing the shot is simply a bonus. It’s the same in our day-to-day. Are the things we classify as problems really problems after all? Or are they simply punctuation marks that reinforce the fact that we are living an incredible life immersed in nature. Glass is half full vs. glass is half empty approach. I’m not trying to be preachy here, these are simply some of my own musings that I use to keep myself in check. Right now I’m watching a painted skink burrow behind a cushion on a chair outside. I’ll probably get the fright of my life when I sit there later – having totally forgotten about the skink – and it rushes out cross my legs. And that’s brilliant.

There’s a great scene in the movie Good Will Hunting in which Robin Williams’ character is talking about his deceased wife, telling Matt Damon about how the so-called imperfections we attribute to people – particularly our partners – are not actually imperfections; they’re the good stuff. It’s the same thing anywhere. There’s no such thing as the perfect place to be or live, it’s just whether or not it’s perfect for you.

I’ll take my shoes being eaten by a hyena in a heartbeat.

Phinda Mountain Lodge: Dramatic Landscapes above Conservation Success

Posted on by James

The Lebombo mountains are perhaps some of the most wildlife-rich on the planet, yet are not well known outside local circles. They don’t feature snow-capped peaks or jagged ridges rising to unimaginable heights. They are in fact not the most impressive range. Yet probably along no other range of hills and mountains will you find more leopards, more lions, more elephants, and more amazing encounters than in the Lebombos.
Stretching from the north of the Kruger National park all the way down its eastern edge, down through Swaziland into South Africa, they start tapering out just as they reach one of this latter country’s finest safari destinations; Phinda Mountain Lodge.

Phinda Reserve is one of conservation’s greatest success stories. Formed from denuded pineapple farms and restocked with wildlife during the 90s, Phinda is now one of the most biodiverse reserves in Southern Africa, comprising over 70 000 acres of Big 5 country with an impressive bird list of 436.

Mountain Lodge was one of the original camps built here, and its three room types (suites, cottages – which can be turned into adjoining family style cottages – and family suite) mean there is something for every type of traveller.

If it’s romance you’re after, there will be more than enough solitude for you and your partner… why not book a private vehicle?
If you’re travelling with a family, great! The &Beyond WildChild program will keep your kids entertained with interactive adventures, perfect for mum and dad to enjoy some down-time.

Apart form world-class game viewing, it is the pioneering conservation experiences that Phinda now offers that are setting it apart from much of the rest of the industry. As a guest, it is now possible to accompany rangers and scientists in their careful monitoring programs of endangered species like Black Rhinos and Pangolins.
Participating in a rhino notching or dehorning, or laying your hands on a sleeping elephant while researchers attach a collar to it is an experience that will leave you truly moved.

Then of course there is the wildlife. Phinda is famed for its cheetahs in particular, with “the Marsh” – an open area in the north of the reserve – offering great hunting grounds for these fastest mammals on earth.
As you move through an amazing range of habitats (the unique Sand Forest is a must-visit!) you will encounter elephants, lions, black and white rhino, leopard, and an entire supporting cast of antelope and other small inhabitants of the bush.

Phinda is most definitely part of only a small group of lodges that continue to set the standard in both luxury wildlife experiences and conservation initiatives. At only a few hours drive from Durban or an easy flight in, it is also one of South Africa’s most accessible lodges for a quick weekend away…

With &Beyond offering special rates at the moment, get in touch if you fancy a trip to one of the country’s premier safari destinations…

South African Resilience Always Wins

Posted on by James

Another surge of Covid cases has seen Christmas effectively getting terminated for the international tourists that traditionally flock to South African shores at this time of year, but in true South African fashion, we look upon setbacks as merely that: setbacks. We embrace life with humour and are always able to see the positive, no matter how bleak things may look in the moment. We know that this too shall pass…

Not to be disheartened by the travel doom and gloom, The Daily Maverick – South Africa’s leading independent online newspaper – took to the press and released this wonderfully candid and reaffirming article, which we felt we didn’t want to try to put into our own words, as they already said it best. The writer was referring specifically to Giving Tuesday, which, according to the DM themselves is “essentially a global generosity movement where we repent for our overspending sins from Black Friday and Cyber Monday and give to those in greater need than ourselves.”

Enjoy (and UK residents please take this as tongue-in-cheek)…

Giving Tuesday is upon us.

The only thing many South Africans would like to give right now is two fingers to the UK for their knee-jerk (emphasis on jerk) reaction to the discovery of the Omicron variant by placing South Africa and our neighbours back on their travel Red List. The world followed and cut South Africa off, too.

As President Cyril Ramaphosa stated on Sunday evening: “The prohibition of travel is not informed by science.”  

South Africans have become accustomed to crisis-surfing: load shedding, water shortages, insurrection(s), the pandemic, vaccine inequality, a bruised and battered economy. But the overwhelming reaction when the world cut us off (after despair) was one of pride. Social media exploded with gratitude and cheers for our epidemiologists who were the first to track TWO variants of Covid-19. And for their skills, transparency and integrity in disclosing the discovery. It was leadership.

Photograph courtesy Alexandros Michailidis/Shutterstock

It’s sometimes easy to forget that we have a lot to be proud of.

  • South African scientists and doctors are renowned for being among the very best in the world;
  • Our film industry is widely recognised as global leaders in their craft, welcoming foreign film crews who come to work with our talent and our landscapes;
  • Our culinary expertise and restaurants feature in the top lists around the world;
  • We breed innovation – Elon Musk and Mark Shuttleworth have changed the world of tech and are just two examples of what South Africa can produce;
  • Artists and writers like Miriam Makeba, Hugh Masekela, Damon Galgut, Nadine Gordimer and Trevor Noah are South African names held on high around the world;
  • We gave the world Jerusalema!;
  • And then there’s the Springboks. Let’s not ever forget that we’re THREE-time world champs. Take that, England.

The best and brightest exist in this country – including the talent and grit of the journalists at Daily Maverick – and this is what we’re working every day to protect. If we can get the basics right, and ensure a functioning country for all who live here, we can all focus on creating a society where our talents flourish and thrive. No country, especially one as rich in resources and talent (and experience) as ours, should be endangered by a single travel ban.

As the move to shut international borders to South Africans showed, we’re on our own. It doesn’t have to feel as daunting as it might sound, though: if anything, every crisis we’ve survived has proved our ability to band together, knuckle down and – most importantly – help each other.

It’s hard to succinctly describe what it means to be South African. “Diverse” is one way. “Enjoys a dop and a braai” is another. But ultimately, what makes us South African is that despite our differences, when the chips are down, we’re good at standing together.

Right now, many holiday plans have been ruined, long-awaited family reunions have been postponed (again) and jobs and income have been threatened or lost. It feels like a knockout blow to a nation that was already on the ropes. And still, we support each other.

We agree wholeheartedly with their sentiments. “When the chips are down, we’re good at standing together”.

South Africa is an amazing country. Its scenic grandeur, its wildlife, its history, the fact that one man could unite 45 million people and bring them back from the brink of civil war (that’s Nelson Mandela, in case you were wondering)… Seldom before in humanity’s past has a nation been as divided as South Africa was during apartheid, yet we are still here, stronger together, building for a better future. No nation is without its struggles, and it would simply be naive to think that having come from centuries of struggle, the gap between the haves and have-nots would be bridged overnight just because of the advent of democracy. We still have a long way to go as a nation, but everywhere you look in this beautiful country it seems that people are determined to move in the right direction.

That, I think, is one of our greatest gifts. No matter what life throws at us, as a collective we stay upbeat. As individuals our humour and optimism is always evident, and even more so when you scale up to the entire country.

The heart of South Africa is its people, and the heart will always beat strongly.

When things open up once more – which they surely will do – this incredible country will be waiting to welcome international travellers back with open arms. Come and see what we’re all about!

Mala Mala Magic

Posted on by James

When you abut the Sabi Sand Reserve – one of the most wildlife-rich areas on the planet – and your hashtag is still #itsallaboutthewildlife, there is probably something special going on.

Mala Mala, one of the first photographic safari destinations in South Africa, has long been revered for its incredible sightings, of the big cats in particular.
20 kilometres of pristine Sand River frontage offer guests unrivalled viewing opportunities, especially during the dry winter months when water is scarce and a plethora of game makes a daily pilgrimage down to the river to drink.
Although other reserves in the area boast similar wildlife densities, it is Mala Mala’s terrain that sets it apart, with the open sandy riverbed making any animal moving around just that much easier to spot, while also allowing for unobstructed photographic opportunities.

It is not just the game drives in which the wildlife features prominently; the camps themselves are constantly alive with nyala, baboons and monkeys, and views through the ancient jackalberry trees down to Sand River allow guests to sit on the verandahs of their suites and enjoy the march past of Africa’s greatest show. Elephants visit the camp almost daily, lions are regularly sighted from the decks, and scarcely does a day go by when the bark of a bushbuck or the chattering of monkeys isn’t heard from the treetops, indicating the presence of a leopard.

The rooms themselves are a wonderful blend of contemporary luxury and nostalgic decor that throws back to the early safari days. Guests have a choice not only of rooms (different size options are available), but camps as well, with three Mala Mala camps offering something slightly different to the discerning visitor.

Mala Mala Camp (formerly known as Main Camp) is the largest of the three, with ten luxury suites, eight luxury rooms and one luxury single suite. A pool, wifi area and library mean guests can stay connected if they really need to access emails and the outside world during off times from bush excursions.
Sable Camp, just next door, is a slightly smaller, more intimate version of MalaMala Camp and is ideal for those seeking a more private and secluded safari experience. This camp boasts seven suites, some of which can accommodate three guests sharing. The camp can be exclusively booked for between fourteen and twenty people.

The final jewel in the Mala Mala crown is Rattray’s Camp, sited a few kilometres downstream along the Sand River. Rattray’s is the most exclusive of the three camps, tucked away by itself, and only allowing a maximum of four guests per game drive vehicle. Flexible game drive times discussed with your ranger allow for all-day excursions to fully soak up the magic of the African bush.

In the context of modern safari, luxury is about far more than a simple thread count or what’s available behind the bar. It’s about time in nature, feeling like there’s no one else on earth, totally immersed in the experience.

With over 13 000ha to traverse and one of the highest wildlife concentrations in Africa, Mala Mala defines wild luxury.

 

 

Lion Sands: Where Nature and Luxury Meet

Posted on by James

Nestled on the southern edge of the world famous Sabi Sand Game Reserve sits Lion Sands, an exclusive lodge run by the More family, that just happens to boast some of the best game viewing in the world.
Leopard, cheetah, elephant, wild dog and of course lions… there is no shortage of high profile game in this reserve that adjoins the Kruger National Park, with only the Sand River (that gives the Sabi Sands its name) in between.

The Lion Sands offering in this part of the world has expanded in recent years however, and the brand has now extended its offering, operating a private concession within the Kruger Park itself, meaning guests have the choice of four different lodges over a much bigger traversing area.
Ivory, River, Narina and Tinga lodges all offer different yet opulent accommodation options, and all have access to a world class wildlife experience.
Whether on honeymoon, travelling as a family, as a first timer or in a big group, Lion Sands has an experience for everyone.

Although the usual safari experience of two game drives a day comes standard at Lion Sands, it is through their specialised offerings that they start to really differentiate themselves.

Sleep outs in a lantern-strewn treehouse; Fish Eagle and Hi’Nkweni villas that offer exclusive use accommodation (two bedrooms each), and a whole host of tailor-made experiences add that extra touch of magic to a safari that has guests returning time and time again.

Being in such a game-rich area, photography is a key component of safari at Lion Sands. Incredible sightings seem to fill up your memory card faster than you can download your images, with the big cats taking centre stage and an incredibly diverse supporting cast backing them up. With this in mind, Lion Sands has developed a fantastic photographic studio, in which guests can edit their safari images with their ranger or one of the in-house photographic specialists, and what’s more, print their photos on canvas to take home as a special memory.

A picture tells a thousand words…

For years now, the More brand has been amongst the leaders in the Southern African safari space, with their lodges continuing to help raise the bar of what luxury safari truly means.
The Sabi Sands is where it began for them, and their offerings in that reserve as well as the neighbouring Tinga concession of the Kruger Park are certainly their flagship locations.

The constant rave reviews we get from guests about the properties – the game-viewing, the food, the guiding, the accommodation – continue to place Lion Sands right up there in our “Must Visit” category…

 

Tropical Paradise Rediscovered

Posted on by James

Mozambique is an oft-overlooked coastal holiday destination. Which in some ways is understandable given that it shares the same ocean with some of the world’s most well-known and romanticised island getaways like the Seychelles, the Maldives and Mauritius.

Yet the Mozambican coastline – and in particular some of its offshore islands – has come into its own over the last decade, offering world-class beach and island holidays with a uniquely African flavour.

Since many of the more prominent lodges and resorts are only a short flight away from the iconic safari destinations just over the border in South Africa, more and more people are tagging on a Mozambican excursion to their safari itinerary, as a way to put the feet up and wind down after a few days of intense wildlife viewing, or simply as a romantic escape and an opportunity to enjoy a crisp glass of wine whilst watching the sun set in the far distance over the African mainland, painting the ocean a thousand shades of red and orange.

Azura Benguerra

In terms of a checklist for picture-perfect beach destinations, Mozambique certainly ticks all the boxes; crystal clear waters, sea temperature around the mid-20s or even higher, white sand beaches with their accompanying overhanging palm trees…
For the fishermen out there most resorts offer deep-sea adventures where dorado and tuna are an easy catch and will likely end up on the barbecue for dinner, and for the lucky anglers a marlin is not out of the question.


The sea is simply brimming with life in this part of the world, and be it on scuba or simply snorkelling close to shore, one is guaranteed to be amazed by the colourful array of marine inhabitants that come in a myriad of shapes and sizes.
The Bazaruto archipelago is one of the last strongholds of the endangered dugong, a marine mammal that breeds in and amongst the mangrove shallows, and a dhow excursion around the azure blue bays might even have you catch a glimpse of one.

For far too long Mozambique has stood on the sidelines in the incredible beach-holiday game, but with the world opening up for travel once more, the southern islands in particular are poised to take their rightful place amongst the most idyllic coastal escapes the world has to offer.

Redefine what your previous idea of coastal luxury was and come and see for yourself.
With a number of spectacular lodges scattered around the Bazaruto archipelago and further north, there are more than enough options to choose from, so if you feel like an entire holiday filled with the salt air and falling asleep to the sound of the Indian Ocean lapping the shoreline, or if you simply want to tag on a few days to your safari adventure, get in touch…

 

Our Iconic Africa

Posted on by James

Africa has been waiting for you all this time. And so have we…

The wildebeest are still spreading in their hundreds of thousands over the sea of grass that is Tanzania’s Serengeti and the leopards are still lounging on the marula branches of the Sabi Sand Reserve in South Africa.
Wild Africa is essentially unchanged.

And most spectacular of all is that these bucket list trips are more accessible than ever.

The last year and a half has been an interesting time in all of our lives, and while we can’t predict the future, what we do know is that the latest news on the African travel front has all been good.
Travel restrictions to multiple countries all over Africa have been lifted, and the continent that birthed mankind is opening up once again to the blank canvas of imagination.

We’re big fans of the clouds-with-silver-linings approach, and the beautiful lesson we’ve taken out of the last year is the recognition of our fundamental human need for experiences. The urge to be spontaneous and free. And above all, a deep desire we all have to understand our humanity through a wild reconnection with ourselves and with each other.

If that connection is something you are looking for, we can help you find it.

Come and rediscover your true wild self…

Cape Town and When to Visit

Posted on by James

Cape Town (and South Africa) officially became a thing in 1652, when Jan Van Riebeeck landed to found a way station for the Dutch East India Company on its trade route between Holland and the Far East.
The reality is that there was actually a presence on the site before that and the real story of who was there first is somewhat different, but history being what it is (complicated, for the most part), it ultimately depends who you ask, and these days that is the officially recognised date of the founding of what in South Africa is known as the Mother City, and throughout the world is known as one of the most spectacular places to visit.

Regularly voted in as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Cape Town truly is a special place. Although cities are usually imagined as only buildings and concrete with nature being a very distant concept, Cape Town bucks this trend.
Shadowed by the magnificent beauty of Table Mountain (a World Heritage Site), the great outdoors are a vital part of daily life in this buzzing, energetic city. From the green lungs of the Kirstenbosch botanical gardens (another World Heritage Site; Robben Island is the third in the city) to the electrifying nightlife along the V&A Waterfront, Cape Town is one of the most dramatic and exciting urban locations one can find, and no trip to South Africa is complete without a visit to this tourism hub.

Visitors do however need to be aware of the seasons, and more particularly the different climates that are found at opposite ends of South Africa.

Cape Town features a typical Mediterranean climate; hot dry summers and cold wet winters. Whilst this makes for a superb wine growing region (South African wines are some of the finest in the world), it does mean you need to pack accordingly.
The main safari areas in South Africa on the other hand – that many people combine their visits to Cape Town with – are exactly the opposite; the hot summers are their wet seasons, punctuated by regular thundershowers, and the winters are cool and dry.


Many rate the winter months (we’re talking about the South African winter here, ie. June/July/August) as the best months to visit the game reserves, as cooler temperatures generally result in more activity from the predators in particular. This does mean though that you may encounter rain if you take in a few days in Cape Town, and the stunning beaches may not be quite as appealing as they would be during the summer months. Having said that, perfectly calm clear days are becoming more and more of a feature in a Cape Town winter, so there will almost certainly be an opportunity to dive into the Atlantic Ocean should your trip take you there at that time of year.

Cape Town is really the ultimate versatile destination. If it’s nature and solitude you want, it’s there. If it’s nightlife you’re seeking, no problem. Culture and history? Easy to find.
The stunning location is simply the backdrop to what this magnificent city in the south-western corner of Africa has to offer. And with international travel regulations easing up and more and more visitors flocking in each month, it’s almost as if things are back to normal…
Whatever the tourism situation, the crisp ocean still laps the city’s shores, the tablecloth still surges down towards the city bowl from the cable car station, and Cape Town is as beautiful as it ever has been….

Africa is Opening More and More

Posted on by James

It’s certainly been a rough year-and-a-half for the travel fundis, and for the industry as a whole. Confined at home for months, then confined to your home country, and even eighteen months in, many of you have been told that a mandatory two-week quarantine period will be enforced as soon as you return home from your overseas sojourn. Not appealing, we know!


But the light at the end of the tunnel is growing brighter and brighter, as seemingly each week another country in Africa opens up for travel. Most of the more prominent safari destinations have fallen off international red lists, regulations are easing all over the world, vaccinations have been rolled out, and although things certainly aren’t fully back to normal, there is an air of normalcy in the air that is making us more excited than we’ve been for a long time to fully welcome international visitors to African shores once more.

Kenya was recently struck off the international red list, visitors from the UK no longer have to quarantine upon their return from South Africa, and Rwanda and its gorillas is easier to visit than it has been for a long, long time. We’ve stated it before, but want to repeat that there literally is no better time to satisfy your travel cravings than right now. Many safari operators are offering insane discounts, popular areas are still quiet, and the strict covid guidelines that have made many people reluctant to venture overseas are enforced so efficiently that being out in the wilds on safari is actually pretty much the safest place to be right now, if any lingering doubts about Covid still remain.

We currently have many guests travelling with us, and without an exception the feedback has been the wonderful tranquility, the soothing of the soul by being back in the wild after so long, and the exclusive feel of almost every lodge given the current reduced occupancies. It’s a bit of an internal dilemma; wishing for business to return to how it it was as soon as possible, but also relishing in the quiet times that are currently greeting every visitor to the bush.

If you want to experience world class game viewing, relax on a beach in a Mozambiquan archipelago, or enjoy the sights and sounds of South Africa’s Mother City Cape Town, don’t wait! The light at the end of the tunnel is certainly approaching, but for the traveller that light is likely to be accompanied by higher occupancies and back-to-normal prices.

Incredible value in safari has never been easier to come by than now.

Get in touch…

Kicheche Safari Camps: Hidden Gems in a Huge Landscape

Posted on by James

Kenya’s Maasai Mara ecosystem is subdivided into a number of areas; the Mara Triangle in the west which forms the edge of the grasslands where it rises up into the Oloololo escarpment, the Maasai Mara National Reserve, which has its own private camps and is where public vehicles can access too, and on the norther edge, a number of conservancies, which operate in conjunction with local communities and traditional pastoralists.

All sections are unfenced and open to each other, allowing free movement of wildlife.

Although not receiving as much press as the sectors to the south, the northern conservancies boast just as spectacular game viewing, if not more so, as well as operating with far fewer vehicles in a sighting. And it is in these areas, prolific with wildlife, that you find the Kicheche camps.

Valley Camp in the Naboisho conservancy is tucked discreetly away in acacia woodland on a hillside, and it is not uncommon to see 20 different cheetahs in a week’s stay here. In the west, Kicheche Mara Camp is in the Mara North conservancy, where world-famous Leopard Gorge is to be found and where so many iconic wildlife documentaries have been filmed.
And in the middle sits Kicheche Bush Camp, set back in the tree-line alongside an expansive grassy plain. This is the lurking ground of the leopard Fig, who featured prominently in the National Geographic Documentary “Jade Eyed Leopard”.

All three camps are small enough to retain that sense of intimacy with guests, in which you don’t feel like a number, but part of things. Valley and Bush Camp have only six tents each, while Mara Camp is only slightly bigger with eight.
Many of the guides have been with Kicheche for well over a decade, and their experience shows in their intimate knowledge of the area. This is especially true when it comes to photography, and Kicheche is ultimately a photographer’s dream. Open skylines, an abundance of wildlife, lion numbers like you wouldn’t believe… combine this with the specially adapted Kicheche photographic vehicles and guides who understand everything from backlighting to depth of field, and you couldn’t ask for anything more, except maybe a memory card or two, as yours are sure to fill up given the prolific number of photographic opportunities.

Kicheche gets it right in the “feeling”; that intangible sense that you are somewhere that you ought to be. That synergy of all the smaller details that can seem so formulaic on paper yet is so difficult to achieve in reality. It’s the staff, the accommodation, the wildlife, the setting. It’s all of them yet none of them.
It’s an ever-elusive element that very few destinations produce, yet Kicheche have, through their own secret formula, got it right…

 

 

 

Vumbura Plains: the Ultimate Water and Land Safari

Posted on by James

The Okavango Delta is an utterly unique wildlife destination.

Formed thanks to a shift in the earth’s tectonics which rendered the Okavango River unable to reach the sea, the delta now sits as an inland paradise; a union of land, water and sky which is as close as one can get to finding a true wildlife Eden.

The Vumbura camps are set right on the water’s edge, meaning you are often almost IN the wildlife experience right from the deck.

Sitting along the delta’s northern edge lies Vumbura Plains, one of Wilderness Safaris’ Premier Camp offerings. 14 luxuriously appointed chalets line a pristine waterway in which elephants wade daily, otters regularly swim past, and the plethora of birdlife that defines the Okavango is a constant spectacle.

Vumbura Plains is separated into Vumbura North and South, with the separate camps boasting slightly different decor and a slightly different emphasis, with the south camp being geared more towards couples on honeymoon and the north camp aimed at families and larger groups.

Glass frontage means an almost unobstructed view to the outside and its wildlife treasures and views.

The wildlife viewing between the two is essentially the same though – incredible – and even just the walk between your room and the main lodge area along the raised walkway is almost sure to gift you a sighting of some sort. The semi-aquatic lechwe and multiple other antelope species are regularly seen grazing behind the camp, and the warning chatter of monkeys is a regular audio cue that signals a leopard is on the prowl.

The ubiquitous lechwe of the Okavango go bounding through the shallows.
Set low down the water’s edge, the Vumbura Camp makes you feel as if you are part of nature, instead of slightly removed from it.

The suites themselves all feature a private plunge pool set on a broad deck, with expansive views out over the lagoon on which the lodge is situated. The decks are set low so that visitors are regularly afforded eye-level views of elephants feeding in the aquatic grasses growing beneath the delta’s surface.

Imagine having a dip in the lazy midday warmth and the world’s largest land mammal just happens to be feeding only a few feet from your pool!

Set in the shade of magnificent riparian trees, each suite at Vumbura Plains is an experience unto itself.
Look up from where you’re swimming in your private plunge pool, and a sight like this might well meet your eye…

The camp itself is one thing – and is so impressive it’s almost reason enough not to head out on game drive – but it’s the wildlife that people travel all the way round the world to see, and Vumbura will certainly not disappoint. The diverse mosaic of habitats, from seasonally inundated channels to small islands, acacia woodlands and expansive grasslands, means that a diversity of species can be supported too.
There is a constant lion presence in the area, leopards are regularly sighted draped from the boughs of the impressive Jackalberry trees, and tssessebe, sable, kudu and giraffe are all found in relative abundance. The bird life is also impressive, and Okavango specials like the rosy-throated longclaw and long-toed lapwing are regularly sighted.

Water activities round off Vumbura’s offering as one of the most complete wildlife and nature experiences out there.

Vumbura Plains is truly one of the jewels in the Wilderness Safari – and Botswanan – crown.
Luxury suites, an amazing mix of water-and land-based activities, wildlife around every corner, suites that you could spend all day lounging in… it is the definition of what a luxury safari should be.

The Leopards of Londolozi

Posted on by James

It’s been over 40 years since Londolozi first viewed the original Mother Leopard, a young female who for some reason was more relaxed around the Land rovers than her predecessors or conspecifics on the reserve at the time.

For the next decade, Londolozi co-founder and Tracker Elmon Mhlongo would follow her life, watching as she raised no fewer than 9 litters of cubs to independence; a feat that has not been recorded in a leopardess since.

Londolozi offers the perfect leopard habitat…

The early years at Londolozi did not feature leopards as part of the standard viewing on a game drive. Conflict with man over the course of the previous half-century had made them skittish, wary, and extremely distrustful of anything unnatural in their environment, which included vehicles and people on foot.
Tracks in the sand, the remains of a kill stashed high in a tree or even a fleeting glimpse in the spotlight after dark were all the evidence the early visitors to Londolozi had of this elusive predator.

A female leopard comes scurrying down from the canopy of a marula tree.

Yet when the Mother Leopard arrived and allowed people into her secret world, all that changed. Her cubs grew up recognising that a Land Rover parked at a respectful distance was neither a threat nor a food source, and their cubs in turn did the same. From that first female came generations and a subsequent dynasty of habituated leopards, which quickly put Londolozi on the map as the place to view them; a reputation it continues to enjoy to this day.

A male leopard stares right back into the camera while drinking…

Not only does Londolozi currently sit in the heart of the densest leopard population yet recorded in Africa, with the bulk of the cats completely ignoring the presence of the game drive vehicles, but the rangers and trackers – many of whom have lived and worked on the land for decades – have an intimate knowledge of most of the individuals.
Life-histories, relatedness, matrilines, territories… it has all been recorded in one of the most closely documented records of a leopard population known on the African continent.

A leopard cub peers cautiously out from behind a tree as its mother moves away from it.

Although there is no such thing as a guarantee in the African bush, Londolozi is as near as can be going to provide leopard viewing the likes of which you’ve never experienced before. The almost supernatural skill of the Londolozi trackers and rangers is almost certain to give you front row seats to what has to be some of the greatest wildlife sightings on earth, with the enigmatic leopard more than likely taking centre stage.
It’s an experience that has guests returning year after year to follow the lives of these magnificent cats, and one that is certain to redefine the way you view the symbiosis between man and wild…

Ngala Tented Camp: Canvas and Luxury in Wildlife Heaven

Posted on by James

A common misconception when hearing the word “tented” is to think of a more rustic experience.

Well, &Beyond’s Ngala Tented Camp will turn that idea on its head.
Nine luxurious tents, all on raised platforms and blending perfectly into the riverine habitat, offer the visitor every comfort they may desire. Each suite is air-conditioned, providing comfort during the warmer summer months, and comes equipped with electric blankets for the chilly winters.
The tents are spaced in such a way that each is completely private, making this the perfect romantic getaway for couples, but the camp is also small enough to make it a fantastic exclusive-use destination for entire families.

The main area of Ngala Tented Camp is a wonderful place to lounge during the day when the sun is high.
All the tents at Ngala Tented Camp feature indoor and outdoor showers, with the outdoor almost always being the preferred choice…
Wildlife can appear at any moment from the surrounding bush, meaning an encounter from the pool loungers is always possible…

Discreetly tucked away on the banks of the seasonal Timbavati River, the camp is located in the Ngala Private Game Reserve, which in turn is part of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park, the largest transfrontier park in the world, comprising over 6 million hectares of pristine wildlife habitat. Ngala itself has over 14 000ha of exclusive traversing, meaning the bush is yours to explore with your ranger and tracker as you would like; on foot or in the vehicle. Off-roading is allowed in a sensitive manner, so close-up sightings of wildlife are practically a guarantee.

Incredible encounters on foot are possible if walks are conducted in the right way.
Leopards are a regular feature on a game drive at Ngala.

Ngala shares an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park itself, and the sheer abundance of wildlife to be viewed on the reserve reflects that. Africa’s famed Big 5 are all to be found here, and sightings are expertly conducted by experienced rangers and trackers. After a day or two you start struggling to remember what you saw when, so readily do the sightings flow into one another.

“Ngala” is the local word for lion, and there is no shortage of them on the reserve.

Ngala Tented Camp really is the perfect place for a bush immersion; connect with nature and ultimately yourself through star-gazing, sleep-outs on a private deck, being up close and personal with magnificent wildlife, or simply by lounging by the poolside in the day, where something is bound to wander out of the vegetation into the riverbed below.

If it is ultimate comfort whilst still feeling as close to the wilderness as you can be that you are after, Ngala Tented Camp is for you…

 

The Best Lion Viewing Destinations in Africa

Posted on by James

Lions are one of, if not the, main reason people travel from all around the world to partake in an African safari. Apex predators in every environment they inhabit, they are the epitome of the wild nature of the continent itself.
Sadly, the reality is that over the last century, lion numbers across Africa have dramatically declined, primarily because of human encroachment and the subsequent loss of habitat for the big cats. Yet in major game reserves in a number of countries, their populations are stable if not recovering.
And lion viewing in one part of Africa may be very different to another.
Here then are our 5 suggested lion viewing destinations, chosen for their variety…

A lioness in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater

Serengeti/Masai Mara

For sheer numbers and scale, the great open plains of East Africa simply have no equal. Apart from the huge herds of wildebeest that make their way through the ecosystem as part of the Great Migration each year, every other animal seems dwarfed by vastness of these grasslands, the king of beasts included.

The scale of the landscape is what makes much of East Africa’s lion viewing special.

The contiguous Serengeti and Masai Mara ecosystems boast roughly 4000 lions between them, and unlike the wildebeest herds that move between the two in a great loop, the lions – being territorial – are around all year, meaning viewing is constant and incredibly varied depending on which season you are in.

You won’t ever forget viewing lions with the endless grasslands of Africa stretching out to infinity behind them…

Duba Plains

Situated right up in the north of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Duba Plains became famous a few years ago for the specialised lion prides inhabiting the area, that had learnt the knack of using the Okavango’s myriad water channels to hunt buffalo.
Huge cats, developing much thicker than normal upper body muscles from wading through the water courses, these lions use special tactics to isolate individual buffalos – even the big bulls – and drive them into the water where the bovines’ manoeuvrability and ability to defend themselves is greatly reduced

Duba Plains lions face down their eternal enemy. Photograph courtesy Leigh Kemp
The lions of Botswana’s northern waterways have learnt to use the channels to their advantage. Photograph courtesy Ed French.

There is of course no guarantee of witnessing such amazing buffalo/lion interaction, but for idyllic habitat and lions that have the know-how, look no further than this destination for your lion fix.

Sabi Sand Reserve

South Africa’s world famous wildlife reserve in the north-east of the country is essentially the big cat viewing destination against which all others are measured.
Not only does it boast a particularly high density of both lions and leopards (the leopard population is reputedly the densest in Africa), but the guides have an intimate knowledge of the prides and the individuals they contain. This means that sightings take on a life of their own as it isn’t just lions you’re viewing; it’s these lions…
Individual life stories and entire family trees are accessible through the guides and trackers, so even a sleeping cat can become the most fascinating creature on earth as its trials and tribulations are revealed to you.

Cubs like this will be known to local guides and trackers, and descriptions of the complex make-up of the pride will all be part of the fascinating viewing.

As the Sabi Sand is all privately owned, off-roading is allowed (conditions depending), so one is able to get intimate views of all wildlife, not just the local lion population.

Incredible lion viewing at Londolozi Game Reserve.

Click here to view some of our favourite lodges in the Sabi Sand Reserve…

Ruaha National Park

South-centrally situated in Tanzania, Ruaha National Park is one of only six reserves that can boast a population of over 1000 lions. It is part of the greater Ruaha Landscape, a 50,000 square kilometre section of East Africa that serves as one of the continent’s most important wildlife areas.
Its rugged scenery, prominently featuring the iconic baboab tree, is a haven for predators, particularly in the dry season (May to October), when wildlife centres its activities around the Ruaha River where the remaining water supplies are, and the lions in particular take advantage of the weakened state of the herbivores to hunt along the river fringes.

 

Ruaha is defined by spectacular landscapes…

Although not as well known as its sister reserves further north, Ruaha’s wildlife viewing is just as spectacular in its own right, and a multitude of luxury safari options that generally fly below the radar are available to those wanting a safari a bit more off the beaten track.

North-West Namibia

You are less likely to see lions in this inhospitable part of Southern Africa, but if you do manage to get a sighting (and many of the specialised camps are masters at finding where the roaming prides of desert lions are to be found), it will be like no other you’ve ever had.
Lions plodding their way over soaring sand dunes; lions threading their way along long-dry desert watercourses; lions on the beach…
The uniquely adapted desert lion population of north-west Nambia is highly specialised for their environment.

 

A lioness reclines on a sand dune. An incredibly special sight. Photograph courtesy Wilderness Safaris.

Some hunt the giant desert giraffes, some have been known to hunt seals on the beaches of the aptly named Skeleton coast, and some lions have even been known to eat the desert-growing Tsama melons.

Just a chance to see these unique cats is well worth looking into Namibia as your next safari destination with a difference…

 

A lion pride in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater

The beautiful thing about Africa is its sheer diversity of wildlife offerings. If lion viewing is your main reason for visiting, be sure to get in touch with our sales representatives, and we can start planning your dream lion-viewing safari…

Africa is Opening Up!

Posted on by James

Africa is opening up again!

For those of you who have been yearning to satisfy that travel urge over the last 15 months, the thrilling news is that you can do that sooner than you think.
Right now, in fact.

United Airlines recently returned to South Africa with its direct flight from New York to Johannesburg, and this route is set to continue as a daily service. Just as exciting is the anticipated resurrection of the New York to Cape Town route, set to launch in October, which will give visitors direct access to South Africa’s Mother City, right on the southern tip of the continent.
Current US Rules allow those fully vaccinated with the Moderna, Pfizer or Johnson & Johnson jabs to return home without having to undergo any period of quarantine, so the worry of getting back home can essentially be forgotten.

Photograph courtesy of Getty Images

For those wishing to head on a breathtaking African safari, there has literally never been a better time.
With most operators offering once-in-a-lifetime specials, fairly quiet lodges, and the game viewing unaffected by what has been happening in the greater world and just as spectacular as ever, the only question seems to be, “Why not?”
Rwanda is open for gorilla trekking, and incredibly sophisticated COVID-19 protocols (everyone in the tourism industry has been vaccinated) make this one of the safest countries to visit.
Botswana’s Okavango Delta is still – as ever – performing its own rendition of Eden, and the leopard viewing in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Game Reserve continues to be unrivalled anywhere in the rest of the continent.

South Africa’s Sabi Sand Reserve is world-renowned for its leopard viewing in particular.

Iconic Africa director Terri Abadi recently flew out to South Africa to visit Londolozi Game Reserve, a place that has been close to her heart for over twenty years, and had this to say about her experience in getting there:

“I flew out just before the New York flight opened so I routed through Amsterdam, and my family flew out after me on the direct NY flight.
Both of our experiences were absolutely seamless. The airlines have adjusted completely to the new normal and to be honest it almost felt like nothing had changed since before COVID-19.

My layover was only two hours in Amsterdam and before I knew it, I was on the ground in Johannesburg and transferring to my flight down to the bush.

I’m excited to see what this means for travel, as once people start to realise how easy and most of all safe it is to get out to Africa, I anticipate people clamouring to go on safari once more!”

Terri Abadi and family enjoying the sunrise on a misty morning at Londolozi Game Reserve.

With the worldwide tourism industry having suffered through the bulk of 2020, but now slowly starting to turn a corner, we are thrilled to be able to contribute in our small way to helping the continent get back to its feet in the travel sector.
The new normal of travel is about responsibility; the awareness of the difference you are making to both the people and the wildlife in the places you visit. Sustainability, reduced impact, boons for local conservation projects and the socio-economic upliftment of communities are all part of the new jargon of travel.

Our destinations and packages are carefully picked to fulfil both a unique and life-changing African experience for the guest, as well as make a positive impact in the areas they serve.

We look forward to welcoming you to this stunning continent.
She is waiting…