A Londolozi of Leopards

The collective noun for multiple leopards is actually a Leap, but the alternate term in this post’s title is more than appropriate, given that Londolozi practically pioneered leopard viewing as we know it today.

In the early 1970’s, thanks to progressive land-management practices and a sensitive approach to viewing wildlife, Londolozi started seeing a single female leopard fairly regularly. Carefully observing her habits and getting her used to the game drive vehicles meant that her cubs picked up her relaxed approach to being viewed, which spawned successive generations of habituated leopards. Londolozi is now viewing its 8th generation of leopards descended from that single female; most likely the most documented leopard lineage in existence.

These days Londolozi remains at the epicentre of Leopard viewing. A camera-trap study conducted by the Panthera Organisation concluded that the Sabi Sand Reserve contains the densest population of these spotted cats yet recorded in Africa, with Londolozi and its neighbours (all of whom sit at the core of the Sabi Sands) containing the highest density of them all; approximately 12 leopards per 100 square kilometres.

A combination of ideal habitat and the resulting prey availability, as well as the fact that the reserve is unfenced and open to the 6 million hectare Greater Kruger National Park, has maintained the population as stable and allowed for unrestricted genetic flow.

Experienced rangers and trackers – among the best in the business – understand the behaviour of the cats intimately and are able to find them on game drives repeatedly.
Although leopards steal the show, and are one of the reasons that guests visit Londolozi from all over the world, they are part of a much wider cast of wildlife, including all the Big 5, as well as cheetahs, wild dogs and a plethora of general game species that will your camera’s memory card up more rapidly than you could dare dream.

The camps themselves offer a wonderful diversity of accommodation options, from the slightly larger family camps – Founders and Varty – to the three-roomed Pioneer Camp, which is generally booked in the exclusive-use villa style, you will almost certainly be able to find what you are looking for.

It is the people of Londolozi that truly set the place apart however.
Since the Varty family rebranded the lodge as a stand-alone, family-run affair in 2007, the vibrant culture that permeates into every nook and cranny of the land has become more and more entrenched, and for many repeat guests, it is the friends they have made amongst the staff that sees them returning time and time again.
Some can boast over 50 visits…

Londolozi delivers time and time again, from the bush experience they offer to the food, hospitality, wellness spa and everything in between.
It may be the place to see leopards but it is also the place to feel more alive than you thought you could. Where you can reconnect with ancient energy and connect to yourself all over again…

Get in touch now through info@iconicafrica.com to enquire about rates and availability…

Low Light Photography

This is probably one of the trickiest areas of wildlife photography to get right.
Photography is all about light, and the less there is, the harder it is to take a sharp photograph. After sunset or before sunrise, cloudy days, or even shooting with a spotlight; all present their challenges, some of which can be overcome and others not so much. But with a couple of trips and tricks, you should be able to get some very memorable photos even when conditions are poor.

1. Know Your Equipment

A good workman never blames his tools, so they say, but the simple reality here is that some camera equipment is significantly better than others. Certain lenses let in more light, some bodies can cope with almost complete darkness, and having this more advanced (but unfortunately more expensive) equipment will go a long way towards getting better photos when the light is poor.
The two things to look for are lens that has a wide aperture (f2.8 or below) and a camera body with high ISO capability (ISO is a measure of the camera’s sensitivity to light). If you have those two you can probably keep snapping away for awhile when the sun has gone down.

If on the other hand you don’t have the advanced gear that the serious amateurs or professional photographers will make use of, it is important to recognise when you are barking up the wrong tree. You will probably hear a very slow shutter speed coming into play (your ranger will identify it for you), resulting in blurry photos.

Simply put your camera down, forget about taking photos, and enjoy watching whatever’s in front of you.

2. Try Something Different

Low light can be an excellent time to experiment.
If a leopard isn’t bathed in golden light but is instead moving slowly along  on a cold grey morning, it’s time to think outside the box.
Your camera will detect that there isn’t enough light around and use a slow shutter speed to compensate, but you can use this to your advantage.

By panning along with your subject, be it elephant, lion or leopard, and using a slow shutter speed, the background should blur out a bit whilst the animal (hopefully) stays sharp. This panning effect implies motion, and is a very effective way of conveying story, which is ultimately what wildlife photography is all about.

Understand Metering and Exposure

You are smarter than your camera. At least hopefully. Whilst you can clearly see that the world in front of you is veiled in darkness and the leopard illuminated in the spotlight is the only thing to concentrate on, and clearly the subject of your desired photo, your camera doesn’t know better. It will just see the darkness and try to compensate for it. It will open the shutter for longer to let more light in, thus massively overexposing the leopard and probably blurring it as well.

In a case like this, you need to tell the camera to keep things dark. You do this by adjusting the exposure. Have a read of a previous post of ours here to understand the concept a bit better.

Knowing how your camera reacts to different levels of light is crucial. The more advanced your photography becomes, the more control you will likely take away from it and put into your own hands (ie. you will be deciding all the settings for yourself).

 

Know What Your Subject Is

Is it the scene or is it the animal?

Do you want to accentuate the clouds or do you want detail in the wildlife?

A lot of the time in wildlife photography, you have to compromise. Make sacrifices. It’s like a relationship. Know what you have to give up on one side to gain something on the other.
Take a look at the photograph below, of wildebeest in the Maasai Mara.
Had the shot been exposed for the wildebeest, the dramatic colours in the evening sky would have been lost (the shutter would have necessarily been slower). Instead, the sky’s colours were prioritised and the wildebeest and lone tree were left as mere silhouettes. Which in turn tells its own story.
It would be very difficult (without the use of a flash or spotlight) to capture detail in both the sky and the wildebeest.

Ultimately, understanding exactly what shot you’re after, what settings you need to capture it, and what the limits of your equipment actually are, all combine to define how you can photograph in low light. But it’s certainly not a case of putting your camera away when the light fades.
Quite the contrary.

Feel free to drop any questions down below about all things wildlife photography related.

Mala Mala Winter Madness

Winter is almost upon the South African Lowveld, which encompasses the Kruger National Park and its adjacent private reserves like the Timbavati, the Sabi Sands, and more relevant to this particular post, Mala Mala.

One of the original photographic safari lodges in the country, Mala Mala has had its doors open to wildlife aficionados since the late 60s, and although the camps have been upgraded since then, the menu has been refined and the experience developed somewhat, the thing that has remained unchanged over all those years is what makes the place part of the epicentre of Big 5 viewing in the region; the wildlife.

Attracted by the perennial Sand River (along which Mala Mala enjoys 20km of frontage), the wildlife flocks in in droves during the winter months – the dry season in this region – when surface water is scarce but the river remains constant.
Lions lounge on the high banks, waiting for the buffalo herds to descend down the dead-end sandy culverts. Leopards slink through the Phragmites reeds, sneaking up on unsuspecting bushbuck, and the ever-present elephant herds march between their feeding grounds and the steady trickle of water that sustains life throughout these cold harsh months of the middle of the year.

And above it all, ever-present and inviting, lies Mala Mala Camp (formerly known as Main Camp).
A haven of understated luxury, combining warm comfort and superb service with unrivalled views of the Sand River and surrounding bushveld, it is truly a place of legends, where rare photographs, old maps and extraordinary mementos rub shoulders with the works of renowned contemporary wildlife artists.The camp is an unfenced oasis in the middle of the bush.

Ten luxury suites, eight luxury rooms and one luxury single suite comprise this unique slice of Africa that is sure to fill up your memory cards faster than the

The spacious and unbelievably comfortable rooms all feature the following:

  • Private decks or verandah with a view over the Sand River or a waterhole
  • En-suite bathroom with private toilet – the suites have both a bath and a shower whilst the luxury rooms only have a shower
  • 24-hour temperature control – air-conditioning, heating and overhead fan
  • Direct dial telephones
  • A mini-bar
  • Tea and coffee making facilities
  • A mini-safe
  • Bathroom amenities, insect repellent and hairdryers

It’a good all year, but winter is the time when Mala Mala truly comes alive.

Thankfully there are a number of different accommodation options available, as competition is fierce to get a booking during the peak of the game viewing months. Rattray’s and Sable Camps offer just as – if not more – luxurious stays, whilst still providing access to just as incredible game viewing experiences.

Get in touch NOW (info@iconicafrica.com) to start planning your Mala Mala safari. This is one you don’t want to miss…

Cheetah Plains: Eco-Excellence

Home of the exclusive-use luxury safari experience in South Africa’s most celebrated wildlife area, the Sabi Sand Reserve, Cheetah Plains is the epitome of a sophisticated, innovative eco-luxury safari experience for the modern age, indulging you in a refined, personalised and private sustainable safari experience of a lifetime.

Set in the north-east corner of the reserve, close to the border of the enormous Kruger National Park (there are no fences to restrict the free flow of wildlife), Cheetah plains enjoys access to the densest leopard population yet recorded in Africa. Numbering up to 12 animals per 100 square kilometres, this is literally the best place on earth to view these magnificent cats.

Each exquisitely appointed Cheetah Plains villa accommodates up to eight guests and boasts a formal lounge, living and dining room areas, expansive swimming pool deck, entertainment lounge, wine gallery, curated art collection, chef’s kitchen and four sumptuous private guest bush suites.

A complete hospitality team consisting of an accomplished host, culinary team, spa therapist as well as expert field guide and tracker team are dedicated to your villa for the duration of your stay. Together, this talented group of professionals deliver a luxury safari experience of the highest standard, tailored to your individual preferences.

 

For the most immersive safari experience, guests are invited to embark on guided, interpretive bush walks. Accompanied by certified and experienced walking-trails field guide, the opportunity to explore certain parts of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve on foot is one not to be missed.

The duration of walks are easily customised to your requirements, taking number of guests, fitness levels, ages, weather conditions and your preferred game drive schedules into account. There is no more tangible way than this to surround yourself with nature.

Cheetah Plains welcomes families and children of all ages. Their highly qualified field guides and trackers are eager to share their bush lore with young, inquisitive minds. Bush bumbles (game drives of age-appropriate duration) and interpretive walks in their indigenous gardens facilitate a child’s connection with Africa’s wilderness and love of nature.

Cheetah Plains are one of the front runners in an industry that is constantly refining the most eco-friendly practices possible. With their increasing use of electric vehicles to conduct game drives, a shift to solar and a focus on reducing their footprint across all lodge operations, Cheetah Plains are set to remain on the cutting edge of what it means to be a world-class, non-impactful lodge…

Get in touch through info@iconicafrica.com to find out more and to start planning your safari…

 

Serengeti River Lodge: Ultimate Migration Exclusivity

Perfectly situated on the banks of a tributary of the Grumeti River, in the secluded western parts of the Serengeti National Park, &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge shares breathtaking views and unparalleled sightings, especially in April and May when the great migration is moving through the area.. 

The lodge enjoys prime position in one of the most beautiful regions of this world-famous wildlife area. Expect a wonderfully intimate, private Serengeti safari experience complete with resident hippo pods and remarkable lion prides.

Due to its far-flung location, there are very few lodges in this pristine section of the park, allowing for far quieter safari experience than in some of the concessions that feature more camps. Twice-daily game drives from the lodge regularly encounter large lion prides and hyena clans. Extensive herds of resident plains game area feature of this area, as well as the special black-and-white colobus monkeys, found nowhere else in the Serengeti.  

Using the natural bow shape of the river, and paying homage to the circular forms of a traditional Maasai manyatta (traditional home), the lodge unfolds to reveal an understated sense of luxury. Adorned with Kitenge fabrics and accentuated with stone walls, the lodge also features the vibrant colours of the fishing communities surrounding Lake Victoria (found just to the west) and the grey tones representative of hippo hide that have been beautifully woven into deeply comfortable furnishings and bespoke, hand-made fittings. 

Walking into the guest area upon arrival, one is blown away by the striking beauty of the lodge. Wide open decks are perfect for enjoying sundowners overlooking the river and the lodge’s sparkling rim-flow swimming pool provides a view of the seasonal hippo pods below, whose honking and snorting creates a wonderful background ambience during your stay. The proximity of water draws a profusion of wildlife throughout the day and night. 

Touching the earth lightly and seemingly floating across the landscape, 10 nostalgically elegant and very spacious guest suites offer natural light, an enormous bed, bath, an indoor shower (with a spectacular view), and a private plunge pool. A Family Suite, with the addition of a smaller children’s bedroom, offers adventurous families the unique opportunity to explore the African bush together. 

Celebrating the local culture and cuisine, become immersed in lodge’s exquisite meals, from breakfast to dinner. Much-loved and well-known breakfast trays, complete with freshly-squeezed juices and house-baked bread, are absolutely not to be missed, while the interactive kitchen creates a space for guests to work alongside chefs and plan their menus for the day. The traditional boma, a hero of night-time dining, serves a selection of artisanal pizzas, and salt-crusted, whole baked fish, which pays homage to the region’s great lakes, among many other delicious meals. Enjoy convivial afternoons and evenings around the central circular bar; a masterpiece of woven fabrics and dramatic glass ball light installations.  

The western sector of the Serengeti is one of its most beautiful and Serengeti River Lodge one of our favourite camps in the greater ecosystem. Although most visitors to this part of the world time their visit to coincide with the wildebeest migration, the reality is that the whole year offers spectacular game viewing.

Get in touch through info@iconicafrica.com to find out more, and let’s start planning your safari…

 

 

Where to View Leopards in 2023

In many ways, the leopard represents the African continent best.

Whilst the regal lion may hold the title of King of the Beasts, and the elephant’s great size render it the most impressive African mammal, it is the enigmatic nature of the leopard, and the mystery that surrounds it, that most adds to its allure as an animal to see on safari, and captures the essence of the African continent most effectively.

In large portions of Africa – and particularly in areas where human wildlife conflict has been a factor over the years – leopards can be hard to find. They are there, but remain invisible. Although they occupy almost every habitat from the mountains just outside Cape Town to the open deserts of the Sahara way to the north, for the most part they are unobserved creatures of the night.

Yet in a few wildlife reserves, leopards are eminently viewable. The big cats there have long realised that the game viewing vehicles do not represent a threat to them, and so allow them and the guests they contain into their daily lives.
Although there is no such thing as a guaranteed sighting, these are a few places that will give you your best chance of viewing leopards in the wild:

Sabi Sand Reserve, South Africa

Long-viewed as the epicentre of wildlife viewing in Southern Africa, a recent camera-trap survey by the Panthera Organisation firmly established this iconic reserve as containing the densest leopard population yet recorded on the African continent.
With a high availability of natural prey species and perfect habitat in which to hunt and raise cubs, the area boasts leopard numbers that around 12 per hundred square kilometres in the centre of the park.


A number of world-class lodges like Londolozi, Singita and Mala Mala have decades of experience showing guests the wonders of the area, and in particular the leopards. Experienced rangers are well versed in the habits and territorial movements of the resident individuals, and so it is in the Sabi Sands that we feel you have THE best chance of viewing leopards in the wild.

South Luangwa, Zambia

Although not as lauded as other contemporary reserves, the South Luangwa National Park has in fact been providing phenomenal game viewing for years. With the Luangwa River delivering a much-needed source of water during the dry season, the area is able to sustain healthy general game populations, and it is these antelope species  – particularly puku and impala – that the local leopard population favours.

Riparian vegetation along the river and its many tributaries provides the perfect habitat for the leopards to slink through, and large evergreen trees provide safe refuges in which to hoist kills to keep them out of reach of hyenas.

Serengeti, Tanzania

Whilst better known for boasting the largest populations of lions and cheetahs in Africa, the Serengeti/Masai Mara ecosystem in East Africa has no shortage of leopards. Although sightings won’t be quite as regular as in other reserves, it is the setting here that creates the appeal around leopard viewing.


Wide open spaces, unimpeded Acacia woodland; wherever you see a leopard – and in particular photograph it – you are likely to get the sense of space that the greater habitat brings. Vistas like you can’t believe, with the seemingly endless plains of Africa stretched out around you. If you happen to be there during the migration, you will also have the background accompaniment of a million snorting wildebeest throughout the day.
Leopard or no leopard though, the East African grasslands are a wildlife experience like no other.

Laikipia, Kenya

Our final recommended leopard-viewing destination is not what one would normally expect to be included in a list like this.
In fact until recently, it wasn’t really on the international radar as a place to see these beautiful cats.
But over the last couple of years, one or two leopards in particular in a small area called Laikipia in central Kenya, have captured the broader imagination of the safari community.
These are the mythical black leopards.

Photographer: Will Burard-Lucas

A rare recessive gene that codes for an excess of melanin – a dark pigment – results in an animal that is much darker than a normal individual. This is the black panther of legend. Black panthers can be any big cat from the Panthera genus – although they are essentially either leopards or jaguars – and contrary to popular belief they are not all black. One can still see the rosettes in their coats if you look closely.
A few individuals have been born recently in the Laikipia district, and although most of them are skittish and very hard to find, one or two individuals that inhabit the area near Laikipia Wilderness Camp have become accustomed to the presence of game drive vehicles, and spectacular photos like the above one by Will Burrard-Lucas are now possible.

Even without the viewing of this most special of leopards, Laikipia is a spectacular area to safari with its high number of unique species.

Leopards capture the idea of safari beautifully. They are on many safari-goers’ bucket lists, but many visitors to Africa entertain little hope of actually seeing them.

If they are an animal which you really to want to see though, we have a number of lodges we recommend highly to give you your best chance.

Get in touch through info@iconicafrica.com, and let’s start planning your safari…

 

The Best Lion Viewing Destinations in Africa

Lions are one of, if not the, main reason people travel from all around the world to partake in an African safari. Apex predators in every environment they inhabit, they are the epitome of the wild nature of the continent itself.
Sadly, the reality is that over the last century, lion numbers across Africa have dramatically declined, primarily because of human encroachment and the subsequent loss of habitat for the big cats. Yet in major game reserves in a number of countries, their populations are stable if not recovering.
And lion viewing in one part of Africa may be very different to another.
Here then are our 5 suggested lion viewing destinations, chosen for their variety…

A lioness in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater

Serengeti/Masai Mara

For sheer numbers and scale, the great open plains of East Africa simply have no equal. Apart from the huge herds of wildebeest that make their way through the ecosystem as part of the Great Migration each year, every other animal seems dwarfed by vastness of these grasslands, the king of beasts included.

The scale of the landscape is what makes much of East Africa’s lion viewing special.

The contiguous Serengeti and Masai Mara ecosystems boast roughly 4000 lions between them, and unlike the wildebeest herds that move between the two in a great loop, the lions – being territorial – are around all year, meaning viewing is constant and incredibly varied depending on which season you are in.

You won’t ever forget viewing lions with the endless grasslands of Africa stretching out to infinity behind them…

Duba Plains

Situated right up in the north of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Duba Plains became famous a few years ago for the specialised lion prides inhabiting the area, that had learnt the knack of using the Okavango’s myriad water channels to hunt buffalo.
Huge cats, developing much thicker than normal upper body muscles from wading through the water courses, these lions use special tactics to isolate individual buffalos – even the big bulls – and drive them into the water where the bovines’ manoeuvrability and ability to defend themselves is greatly reduced

Duba Plains lions face down their eternal enemy. Photograph courtesy Leigh Kemp
The lions of Botswana’s northern waterways have learnt to use the channels to their advantage. Photograph courtesy Ed French.

There is of course no guarantee of witnessing such amazing buffalo/lion interaction, but for idyllic habitat and lions that have the know-how, look no further than this destination for your lion fix.

Sabi Sand Reserve

South Africa’s world famous wildlife reserve in the north-east of the country is essentially the big cat viewing destination against which all others are measured.
Not only does it boast a particularly high density of both lions and leopards (the leopard population is reputedly the densest in Africa), but the guides have an intimate knowledge of the prides and the individuals they contain. This means that sightings take on a life of their own as it isn’t just lions you’re viewing; it’s these lions…
Individual life stories and entire family trees are accessible through the guides and trackers, so even a sleeping cat can become the most fascinating creature on earth as its trials and tribulations are revealed to you.

Cubs like this will be known to local guides and trackers, and descriptions of the complex make-up of the pride will all be part of the fascinating viewing.

As the Sabi Sand is all privately owned, off-roading is allowed (conditions depending), so one is able to get intimate views of all wildlife, not just the local lion population.

Incredible lion viewing at Londolozi Game Reserve.

Click here to view some of our favourite lodges in the Sabi Sand Reserve…

Ruaha National Park

South-centrally situated in Tanzania, Ruaha National Park is one of only six reserves that can boast a population of over 1000 lions. It is part of the greater Ruaha Landscape, a 50,000 square kilometre section of East Africa that serves as one of the continent’s most important wildlife areas.
Its rugged scenery, prominently featuring the iconic baboab tree, is a haven for predators, particularly in the dry season (May to October), when wildlife centres its activities around the Ruaha River where the remaining water supplies are, and the lions in particular take advantage of the weakened state of the herbivores to hunt along the river fringes.

 

Ruaha is defined by spectacular landscapes…

Although not as well known as its sister reserves further north, Ruaha’s wildlife viewing is just as spectacular in its own right, and a multitude of luxury safari options that generally fly below the radar are available to those wanting a safari a bit more off the beaten track.

North-West Namibia

You are less likely to see lions in this inhospitable part of Southern Africa, but if you do manage to get a sighting (and many of the specialised camps are masters at finding where the roaming prides of desert lions are to be found), it will be like no other you’ve ever had.
Lions plodding their way over soaring sand dunes; lions threading their way along long-dry desert watercourses; lions on the beach…
The uniquely adapted desert lion population of north-west Nambia is highly specialised for their environment.

 

A lioness reclines on a sand dune. An incredibly special sight. Photograph courtesy Wilderness Safaris.

Some hunt the giant desert giraffes, some have been known to hunt seals on the beaches of the aptly named Skeleton coast, and some lions have even been known to eat the desert-growing Tsama melons.

Just a chance to see these unique cats is well worth looking into Namibia as your next safari destination with a difference…

 

A lion pride in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater

The beautiful thing about Africa is its sheer diversity of wildlife offerings. If lion viewing is your main reason for visiting, be sure to get in touch with our sales representatives, and we can start planning your dream lion-viewing safari…

Londolozi: A Return Home

It has been 26 years since I first journeyed to Londolozi Game Reserve, yet every time I visit I still feel the same sense of giddy excitement I did on that initial visit so long ago, the same sense of nostalgia when I climb up into the Land Rover for the opening game drive of the trip, and the same overwhelming sense of sadness when I leave.

It’s not just the amazing sightings of leopards in trees, lions wading through the Sand River, or being surrounded by the 7th herd of elephants for the morning. It’s far more than that.
This for me was where my true love for the bush began, as I began to see exactly what type of experience it could – and should – be.

My first visit to Londolozi, 26 years ago (I am standing centre). Ranger Julius Ngwenya (sitting in front) has his son now working as a tracker at Londolozi.
And our latest trip, out on game drive waiting for lions to wake up in the evening.

This is what Londolozi does so well. There’s no formula. That went out the window long ago. Yes there is a framework within which the lodge operates – out before sunrise each morning to catch the dawn chorus, night drives following lions on the hunt, bush walks to make you touch, smell, and truly listen – but the reality is that each safari, each time you venture out of the camp gates in fact, is tapered to suit your specific needs.

One of the many herds that inhabit the reserve wade across the Sand River (Pioneer Camp is just out of picture to the left).
The winter months are an especially good time to see elephants in the South African bush.

Birding is your thing? No problem; the focus shifts to the myriad different habitats that the reserve features, with the guide and tracker fully aware of which species are to be found where. Photographically inclined, wanting to capture that magical silhouette shot of a leopard outlined against the vivid reds of an African sunset? The tracking team will find that leopard, and – conditions permitting – the ranger will know exactly where to position the vehicle and what camera settings to use to make sure you nail the shot. There is no such thing as homogeneity in the Londolozi experience. It’s always unique and always special.

You never know what will be around the next corner at Londolozi…

I try to get back there once a year, except these days it’s not just me and my husband but my kids as well, and my brother and his wife regularly accompany us.
We try to stay in Pioneer Camp each year, the most westerly of the Londolozi camps. One of Londolozi’s three Relais and Chateaux camps, Pioneer only has three rooms, perfect for a family of our size. The adults go into two of them while the kids squeeze into the third (which is connected to ours by a discreet walkway).
And for a magical ten days, the camp becomes home.

The camp manager this year was Shannon Dawson, the most wonderful person you could ever wish to meet, and she shares a similar history with us in that she has also been visiting Londolozi with her family since she was small. And now she calls it home too.
Nothing was ever too much for Shannon, and her delightful smile was always there to welcome us home after game drive, morning and evening.

This leopard was waiting for us just off the edge of the Pioneer Camp deck as we returned from game drive one evening!

Travelling out from Atlanta, GA, where I live these days (having moved from South Africa in the 90s), it makes far more sense for us to come for a longer trip, so ten days is usually the least amount of time we will stay. I cannot emphasise enough the value of a longer stay. It allows one to truly sink into a place, to adjust to the flow of the African bush, and get to know the ranger, tracker and camp staff far better than one would in what would traditionally have been a three night adventure.

Our coffee stop one morning in a treehouse overlooking the Sand River.

 

A young leopard cub peers down nervously from the boughs of a marula tree, still uncertain of the best way to descend.

Particularly for those coming from further afield, long stay safaris are slowly starting to replace the three night visits, which travel trends are definitely starting to reflect. The idea it seems, is to go deeper, not broader. Rather than hopping between lodges, discerning travellers are preferring to remain in one place, getting the absolute most out of a visit that they can.
This is certainly what we try to accomplish each time we visit Londolozi.

Tiny wild dog pups emerge from their den as their mother calls them out.

This was our first time back in a couple of years, Covid-19 and other circumstances having prevented us visiting since July 2018.

The best thing for me was just how easy travel was in these times: flights were not a problem, covid-compliant and everything almost seemed easier than normal, especially given that airports are far less crowded. A hop, skip and a jump, and back in Londolozi we were…

And what a return it was.
Lions taking down a buffalo on our first morning, male leopards roaring back and forth at each other, a female leopard with her cubs just learning how to climb, wild dog pups emerging from their den for the first time… The sightings were incredibly varied and seemingly endless.
And in between them was the Londolozi fun; Wimbledon-themed dinners, soccer games for the kids, tracking lessons from Joy Mathebula… Whenever we least expected it, there was something new and exciting on the cards.

Tracker Andrea Sithole – who our family have known for years – celebrates a goal with my daughter Brodi in a soccer game organised for the kids staying in camp.
One of the dominant male leopards that Londolozi is so famous for, drinking only a few feet from our vehicle.

Londolozi doesn’t just thrill with the wildlife. They take you into their world and open your eyes. You get to see what this one wild life we have all been given should really be about: fun, connection, intimacy with nature and ultimately finding the best version of yourself.

I know I find that person whenever I’m at Londolozi.
And you can too…

 

 

The Ultimate African Rivalry

Iconic Africa director Terri Abadi and family are currently on vacation at South Africa’s Londolozi Game Reserve, a place Terri has been visiting for over twenty years.

On their very first morning on safari, they headed into the north of the reserve to see what they could find, and soon came across tracks of a large pride of lions.
After tracking for well over an hour, the bellow of a buffalo up ahead was heard, and the vehicles involved in the search moved into the dense thickets the noise had emanated from.

This is the scene that met their eyes:

Standard practice among lion prides attempting to bring down buffalo bulls is for one or two to try and anchor the bull from behind while others distract him from up front, and slowly wear him down.

A local group of lions known as the Nkuhuma Pride had cornered an old bull buffalo and had already inflicted some injuries upon him, although only superficial thus far. Three other bulls from the bachelor herd would run in repeatedly to help out their comrade, but would get chased off by the pride.

After an hour-and-a-half things seemed to have reached a stalemate, with both the lions and the buffalo exhausted and not making any further moves. It wasn’t too long though before the adult lionesses in the pride had recovered enough to renew the attack, and this time the old bull could stand it no longer, and went down under their weight.

The old bull put up a valiant fight, but being so severely outnumbered the odds were never in his favour.

The rest of the pride swarmed in to finish him off, and with one lioness smothering his muzzle and a second clamping her jaws over his throat to asphyxiate him, the buffalo was dead within minutes.

The final moments as the lions move in to finish the buffalo off.

Although difficult to watch, the reality of this age-old scene is that in nature the weak go under in order for the strong to survive. The buffalo was in the wrong place at the wrong time, and despite probably having survived numerous lion encounters before, this day was when he finally met his match.