(Note: Winter in this post refers to the Southern Hemisphere winter; roughly May through to September)
The word “winter” doesn’t always conjour up exciting images of travel. More like pictures of cold, overcast days, likely some rain, not much happening, everyone sitting indoors reading a book.
Yet for those who know safari, winter sends ripples of excitement up and down their skin. It’s a time of clear skies in the southern hemisphere safari circuit, jackets and beanies at night, and action, action, action from the wildlife!
Ultimately winter is about water.
It’s the dry season over most of the African safari circuit, so any surface water becomes of prime importance in wildlife movement, be it in the form of a river, a pan left over from the rains or even an artificially pumped damn.
Almost all wildlife needs to drink every day, and so understanding what ecosystems have what water availability at different times of the year will certainly aid you in planning a world-class safari.
Here are three areas we absolutely love when the winter months settle in…
The Okavango Delta, Botswana
The Okavango can seem quite topsy-turvy when it comes to water, in that when the rains have stopped, the water levels rise. This is because the rain that feeds the Delta’s annual inundation don’t fall locally, but far away in the Angolan highlands. It takes these rains a good few months to flow downstream, so it is only in May that they are properly reaching the Delta itself, and the channels start to spill over into the floodplains.
The rains are quite variable which means the inundation itself is variable, but for those who are interested in water-based activities like dugout canoe excursions, fishing trips or water transfers between camps, winter is the time for you.
It’s also a fascinating time to see how the local wildlife adapts to very different conditions.
Elephants swim across channels to reach better grazing, lions use the waterways to hunt buffalo, chasing the big bovines into the deeper water to slow them down, then moving in en masse to finish the job, and everywhere you look you see shimmering signs of life-sustaining water.
There is magic to be found in the Okavango all year round, but to truly understand the ecosystem, the months of flood are our favourite.
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
The south-eastern corner of this, one of Africa’s oldest national parks, is particularly productive. The Wilderness-run Linkwasha concession boasts four stunning camps – Makololo, Little Makololo, Davison’s and Linkwasha Camp itself – all of which offer exclusive access to some of the best game-viewing the dry season can offer south of the Zambezi.
The closest permanent water is the Zambezi River, over 100 kilometres to the north, so Hwange choose to maintain some surface water through a series of pumped waterholes, evenly spaced across the reserve.
This prevents the wildlife – most notably elephants – dispersing outside of the park and into neighbouring community lands. Prime game viewing is therefore maintained for visitors and human-wildlife conflict in buffer zones is mitigated against.
The dry season also means shorter grass, so spotting animals is easier, and there is far less vegetation to get in the way of a potentially award-winning photo.
Things can get chilly though, here in what is essentially still part of the Kalahari basin, so make sure to bring a warm jacket to protect against the chill of the evening. Upon return to camp you’ll be greeted by a warm drink or a crisp glass of wine, and can gather round the fireside as the hyenas start to call.
Then it’ll be back out again before sunrise, checking the waterholes to see what has happened during the evening.
Hwange in the dry season is not to be missed!
North-west Namibia
The rolling gravel plains, stark mountains and seemingly barren wilderness of north-west Namibia may appear to be lifeless, but in fact is one of the most fascinating ecosystems on the planet.
Desert-adapted black-rhino, desert elephants, lions who almost never drink, giraffes that stand alone in an area that looks somewhat like the surface of Mars… all these and much, much more are to be found here, somehow eking out an existence where it hardly ever rains.
Given that water is still necessary for life, animals must still drink, and secreted in this vast wilderness are secret springs and seepages that the animals know of. Visit any one of them and you will find a myriad of tracks showing all kind of visitors; hyenas and kudus and mongoose and jackals and the elephants themselves.
Ancient pathways lead many kilometres between these hidden lifesprings, but the ancient knowledge the wildlife possesses leads them unfailingly to these points.
A number of stunning camps are tucked away in remote valleys in the wildlife concessions here, which allow unfettered access to this, one of the most remarkable ecosystems in the world. The winter months mean cooler temperatures in an area that can be scorchingly hot in summer, and clear skies and a panoply of stars come standard.
Both the Damaraland region and Kaokaveld to the north are cut through by ephemeral rivers that wind their sandy way down to the harsh but appropriately named Skeleton Coast, and theses river systems serve almost as oases, harbouring subterranean water for much of the year, which the elephants know to dig for, and the giant pachyderms can often be found along the watercourses as a result.
Seeing a herd emerge from a riverbed onto the gravel plains in a landscape that you would never imagine could support such creatures, is a sight you will never forget.
The southern hemisphere Winter is a magical time to be on safari, and we feel strongly that the three areas above will offer some of the most spectacular experiences out there.
If you want to know more about what’s available, reach out on info@iconicafrica.com, and let’s start planning your winter journey to Africa…
